Permanent makeup (PMU) has revolutionised the beauty industry, offering clients the convenience of flawless brows, lips, and eyeliner from the moment they wake up. However, one of the most common questions clients and aspiring artists ask is: why does PMU change colour over time? Whether it is a set of beautifully crafted ombre brows that have gradually turned ashy, or a crisp eyeliner that has blurred, understanding the science behind PMU colour change is essential for both practitioners and clients.
At Powdrr, the UK's premier PMU Training Academy, we believe that education is the foundation of excellence. With over 15 years of experience and more than 6,000 treatments performed, our head trainer Stevie Douch has seen it all. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the mechanisms of permanent makeup fading, why PMU turns grey or red, and the critical issue of pigment migration. By understanding these factors, artists can improve their techniques, and clients can better manage their expectations and aftercare.
The Science Behind Permanent Makeup Fading
To understand why PMU changes colour, we must first look at how pigment interacts with the skin. Unlike traditional body tattoos, which are implanted deep into the dermis, permanent makeup is designed to be semi-permanent. The pigment is deposited into the upper layers of the dermis, specifically the papillary dermis. This shallower depth is what allows PMU to look soft and natural, but it also means the pigment is more susceptible to the body's natural processes and external elements.
!Diagram showing how PMU pigment breaks down and changes colour in skin layers over time
The Role of the Immune System
From the moment pigment is implanted into the skin, the body's immune system recognises it as a foreign substance. Macrophages, a type of white blood cell, rush to the area to engulf and remove the pigment particles. Over time, these macrophages slowly break down the pigment and carry it away through the lymphatic system. This continuous immune response is a primary driver of permanent makeup fading. Because different pigment molecules are broken down at different rates, the overall colour of the PMU can shift as it fades.
Why PMU Turns Grey, Blue, or Red
Understanding the colour wheel for PMU
One of the most frustrating aspects of PMU colour change is when the pigment shifts to an undesirable hue, such as grey, blue, or red. This phenomenon is rarely due to a single factor; rather, it is a combination of pigment composition, skin undertones, and the artist's technique.
The Impact of Pigment Composition
The type of pigment used plays a significant role in how it ages in the skin. PMU pigments are generally categorised into organic and inorganic (iron oxide-based) formulations.
Inorganic pigments are known for their stability and earthy tones, but they tend to fade to warmer hues, such as red or orange, over time. This happens because the black and brown components of the pigment are broken down by the body faster than the red components. On the other hand, organic pigments (which are actually synthetic organics) are incredibly vibrant and long-lasting. However, if they are implanted too deeply or if the formulation is heavily carbon-based, they can fade to cool, ashy, or grey tones.
Understanding colour theory and pigment formulation is a crucial part of any advanced PMU training programme. An experienced artist must select the correct pigment not only based on the client's current hair and skin colour but also by anticipating how that specific pigment will age in that specific skin type.
Depth of Implantation and The Tyndall Effect
Perhaps the most common reason why PMU turns grey or blue is incorrect depth of implantation. When pigment is placed too deeply into the dermis, it interacts with the light in a specific way known as the Tyndall effect.
The Tyndall effect occurs when light passes through the skin and scatters. Shorter wavelengths of light (blue and green) are scattered more easily than longer wavelengths (red and yellow). Therefore, when a dark pigment is buried deep beneath the skin, the overlying tissue acts as a filter, causing the pigment to appear cool, grey, or even blue to the naked eye. This is why a heavy-handed technique can ruin even the most perfectly colour-matched brows.
"The difference between a good PMU artist and a great one lies in their understanding of the skin. You are not just painting a canvas; you are working with a living, breathing organ. Mastering your depth is the single most important skill to prevent unwanted colour changes and ensure beautiful, long-lasting results." - Stevie Douch, Head Trainer at Powdrr Academy
Understanding Pigment Migration
While fading and colour shifting are natural parts of the PMU lifecycle, pigment migration is a complication that should be avoided at all costs. Pigment migration occurs when the ink spreads beyond the original boundaries of the tattooed area, resulting in a blurred, blown-out, or smudged appearance.
